Round up | London Fashion Week Men Spring Summer ’19
When I thought about London Fashion week for Men I’ll be honest I had some hesitation. The reason being? In recent years I felt like it had become a hub for extrovert designers with no intention of creating ensembles that made any sense both metaphorically and aesthetically. It felt like it had just become a show. A case of whoever shouts the loudest wins, whereby the talent gets over awed by the light.
With all that said I was surprised by what I saw from Spring/Summer 19’s offering. It was a throwback to yester year, a sense of invigoration rippled among the young designers such as Phoebe English, Daniel w. Fletcher and Martine Rose. While on the other hand determination from the industry leaders like Oliver Spencer was refreshing. London had always been defined by youthful energy and this invigorated most designers on the schedule.
With the departure of a few key brands it felt like the stage was set for some to set the benchmark. Patrick Grant of E. Tautz led the way with nostalgic tales of historic supply chains of north England. Ever the conversationalist Patrick noted the heritage that had been forgotten while discussing each look. Aesthetically it was clean. Fresh palettes in denim and jersey sat over embroidered sweatshirts – it was classic Tautz.
Kent & Curwen also benefitted from the limelight. Under the helm of Daniel Kearns the quintessential English theme came across in sporting iconography. Oversized sweatshirts, zip up training tops and bucket hats were inspired by the iconic 90’s outfit The Stone Roses. Although relatively new it feels like the house have cemented their aesthetic to one that opts for inclusivity in its approach, enabling a cross generational reach.
Opening up the scope for Youth was Edward Crutchley with his lounge aesthetic that felt like a nod to warmer climates. Gowns were bellowing as the designer took inspiration from French artist Lucien Murat. While mythical in its approach the collection was nothing but wearable. Working with a Yorkshire mill that dates back to the 16thcentury had enabled the brand to balance modernity with craft and in turn allowed for commercial viable looks with a clear stylistic vision.